Kalamkari Art - Poetry on Fabric
Freshly-dyed and sun-dried sarees flap in the late morning breeze: the day starts early, and so most of the work is already done. There are no machines; only hardworking craftspeople who make the wonderfully-complex designs with painstaking accuracy developed over years of practice, they work rhythmically — dip the kalam gently in dye, draw it accurately on the cloth to bring to life one of the finest craft to life...Kalamkari.
The Origin of the Art of Kalamkari
Deriving its name from the word ‘Kalam,’ which means pen, ‘Kalamkari’ refers to a particular, intricate style of hand-painting onto cloth and is noted for its beautiful earthy yet vibrant tones.
Kalamkari, which has been around in India for almost 2000 years, was first used to portray scenes from sacred texts such as the Mahabharata, Ramayana and Bhagavatam. These paintings were often used as decorative backdrops in temples, depicting the stories of deities. Today, these subjects are still common in Kalamkari, as well as other spiritual and ancient symbols like peacocks, fishes and lotus motifs.
There are two types of Kalamkari paintings, Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam. While Machilipatnam and Pedana are hubs for hand block printed kalamkari, Srikalahasti, in Chitoor a district of Andhra Pradesh, is known for its style of freehand pen drawing format. The pen is a sharp pointed pierced bamboo that regulates flow of colour on the fabric.
The Intricate Technique of Kalamkari
Kalamkari is a tedious and time consuming process and involves a number of steps.
Firstly, the cotton pieces are soaked in water mixed with cow dung. The cloth is thoroughly washed the next day and the process is repeated the next day as well, post which it is laid for drying.
The next step involves treating the cloth with myrobalan seeds and buffalo milk to prevent smudging of dyes when painted. The cloth is treated with naturally occurring solutions which helps it achieve a uniform, off-white colour.
What follows are multiple stages of immersion in natural concoctions, washing, sun-drying. Once the fabric is deemed ready for painting, the initial sketches are done using a charcoal quill. Post this, natural dyes are used to fill in the drawings.
Pic source- Pinterest
How to Bring Kalamkari Craft in Your Wardrobe
Kalamkari depictions are fine, distinct and neatly drawn, with extensive use of organic colours which are fast, and till date, there has hardly any dilution in the skill and quality. A very convenient way to incorporate this classic art form is investing in a fine quality handpainted srikalahasti kalamkari pen work dupatta.
- Pick a shade which is in contrast with your suit so that the Kalamkari dupatta can stand out. Make the dupatta the "center of focus" making it a value-add and probably the center of attraction.
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- Another clever idea to keep the wardrobe underneath a monotone so that it brings out the beauty of the dupatta even more. Ace fashion stylist Prerna Chhabra shows you how!
- Traditional, Kalamkari dupattas can be styled with minimum accessories and leather boots to give that boho chic vibe
What holds in the future?
It is amazing that a 3000-year-old craft of pen Kalamkari still survives, unaltered and majestic in its very simplicity. Absorbing various influences like screen printing, the craft has managed to retain its traditional identity and unique character. Whether hand-painted or block-printed, the traditional designs and motifs of the craft speak a language of their own, and it is by recognising this inner voice that the future of the art can be secured.
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